Did the violent past leave something worth visiting in Brasov?

This trip does not stop, guys! After having a great time in Sibiu, Romania, today we are heading to Brasov. There are places that we like so much that literally, to leave them feels like we need to tear ourselves away from them hahaha. It happens frequently to us. We love that this world still has plenty of beautiful places to visit and make you feel like that. Sibiu was one of those.

There is something very nice about driving in Transylvania, the landscape, the beautiful Carpathians, guys! Mountains are an amazing frame for all the nature around! In the current trip, we have discovered Romania has many big and beautiful natural parks. You can find one almost in every direction you go. By the way, if you don’t know much about Transylvania and where exactly it is, you definitely should read Is Transylvania a real place? Is it still vampire-infested? Find out now!

Where is Brasov?

Take your map. Brasov is in the central part of Romania. We were driving from Sibiu to Brasov, so based on Google calculations, it is around 3 hours of driving. It depends on the route you take, it can be from 142 km (via DN1/E68) to 168 km (via DN1/E68 and DN13/E60). If you are in Bucharest, to reach Brasov, you have to go to the north and it is 183 km, approximately, 3 hours and 46 minutes driving.

We stopped in some places before reaching the center of Brasov. The one we liked the most was Făgăraș. There is a big citadel and a church there and the surroundings were perfect for a break. It is said this citadel and Făgăraș hosted important rulers during the late Middle Ages. The beginning of its construction dates back to 1310. It was built to defend Transylvania from Tatar and Ottoman invasions. It gained greater recognition during Mihai the Brave rule. After, during the Communist time, it was used as a prison.

A glimpse of Brasov’s history

Brasov’s foundation goes back to 1211 and Teutonic Knights. It was built by Transylvanian Saxons and it was one of the Siebenbürgen or seven-walled citadels. At that time, Brasov’s name was Kronstadt (Crown City). The other citadels were Bistritz (Bistrita), Klausenburg (Cluj), Mühlbach (Sebes), Mediasch (Medias), Hermannstadt (Sibiu), and Schässburg (Sighisoara).

They were very violent times. Invasions, war, and destruction were constant threats. During the 12th century and onwards, western people (from the current territories of Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg, and Germany) arrived in Transylvania to support the work on the land and defend it against different invaders. They were called Transylvanian Saxons.

Brasov’s good location, in terms of trade routes between western Europe and the Ottoman Empire, and its friendly tax regime made it possible for Saxon merchants to grow wealth and influence in this region.

Its long history marked Brasov with gothic, baroque, and renaissance signs in its architecture.

What to do in Brasov?

Finally, we arrived in Brasov! It is a very cool city. We stayed here a week and we could stay longer hahaha. But yes, the first question we had once there was, now what to do in Brasov? And the second was, did the violent past leave something worth visiting in Brasov? Here you have what we found and enjoyed the most.

Council Square (Piata Sfatului)

Council Square is the medieval historic center of Brasov. A good choice as to what to visit in Brasov! The square is closed to cars so you can relax and walk calmly there, like the other pedestrians. Admire the old buildings' facades, colorful houses, and Saxon traces, get lost in its old streets and narrow alleys, stop in a café or restaurant for a while, then walk more, and maybe take a seat on a bench to people-watching. There were people, but it was not as crowded as it could be because it frequently houses different cultural events (exhibitions, music concerts, fairs, marketing activations, etc.). It is a place where people naturally gather. It is a meeting point. While people-watching, we saw different couples, young families with kids, and groups of friends getting together around the square. Chatting, walking around, getting pictures, chasing pigeons, and dating, were common activities. Inspiration for people wondering what to do in Brasov.

How different things are here (fortunately) currently! In the Middle Ages, exactly this square witnessed a lot of violence. It was used to carry out public trials and bloody executions. Later, during Communism, rules forbade gatherings. Congregating and socializing were seen as risks for the system. Therefore, to avoid such activities and people “plotting”, the square was turned into a parking lot.

This day, we took it easy so we just walked around the center and enjoyed its calm and cool vibe. To be there is a very pleasant experience! We made a mental list of places (monuments and buildings) we got interested in. Later we got back for a deeper exploration.

Tampa mountain (Muntele Tâmpa)

What to do in Brasov, well, once there, one of the first things you will see is a big Hollywood-like notice. It says “Brasov” and it is on the top of Tampa mountain. While walking in the historic center, we saw it from different angles. Later, at night, we saw it glowing (illuminated) from our accommodation. It was a clear sign, a tempting invitation to hike and reach the top of Tampa mountain. So we did!

It was a cloudy day, but that helped because, on hotter days, the hiking for sure is harder. The route to climb it is well marked and with signs enough not to fail the mission: reaching the top (Brasov’s notice)! The walk is not the hardest or so physically demanding but this always can be controversial based on everyone’s physical condition. Tampa is approximately, 955-960 m high, 400 m above the city.

We saw many people evading the effort hahaha. They headed directly to the cable car which takes you up in a couple of minutes (official trip duration, 2 minutes and 30 seconds). Seriously, we found only a few people using their feet instead. The fattest were the ones struggling in the steepest parts. Some runners humiliated the rest of us because they were overtaking every hiker by running nimbly hahaha. We are not experts, but honestly, the biggest challenge for us that day was the moody ground. It rained during the night so it was very moody and this combined, in some moments, with loose rocks.

The views of the city from Tampa are awesome! And the mountain itself is very nice. At the time we were there (May), it was very greenish. We were told that in the past, rather than the “Brasov” notice, the top of the mountain housed the original defensive fortress of the city. It was destroyed in 1458, as a result of Vlad Tepes’ attack. Yes, the ruthless “Impaler” burnt the fortress to the ground. And the tale goes darker. Vlad imposed trade restrictions and taxes on trading, especially on Saxon products. Many merchants refused to pay trade taxes and you can imagine what happened to them, right? They were impaled and bloody displayed on top of Tampa mountain.

Our imagination was constantly recreating such ruthless scenes with the beautiful landscape we were enjoying and it was like a crazy, bloody but awesome movie hahaha.

After an hour, we made it to the top! Yeeii! We saw the Brasov’s notice and some seconds later, we got surprised! The awesome viewpoint next to the notice was badly crowded. M and I were like “If we only saw around 10 or 15 people tops, climbing up to here, how is this place crowded?”. More than 60 people were in the viewpoint chaotically trying to take selfies and other pictures and more were arriving. How? They took the cable car.

Come on! Seriously? Who the hell prefers to arrive at the top fresh, well-combed, and even in high heels? When you can arrive tired, sweaty, and messy after the effort hahaha. We needed to be patient and fast there to enjoy a bit of the view, without being swallowed by the disorganized crowd. Personal space matters a lot! Besides, these are COVID-19 times, and when people don’t respect boundaries, that can wake up the violent “Impaler” that lives inside us hahaha. We enjoyed this hike very much. And we even avoided finishing the experience by burning everybody to the ground hahaha.

As a reference, we wore regular sneakers, nothing special or specifically for hiking. It took us an hour to reach the top, photo stops and breaks to enjoy the panoramic views included in this time. We took some sandwiches and snacks with us. It was a cool idea because even though the crowd took over the viewpoint (terrace) long time, we still could enjoy a picnic and the fresh air on Tampa’s top. Then, we made it down to the center.

If you want information (price tickets, schedules, conditions, etc.) about the Tampa cable car (telecabina Tâmpa), you can visit https://www.mountlift.com/de-vizitat/telecabine-telegondole-telescaune-romania/telecabina-tampa

The Black Church (Biserica Neagra)

It is one of main Brasov’s landmarks and it is in the center (main square). Its name is linked to a tragedy. In 1689, a terrible fire devastated almost completely the city. The church did not escape it. A large part of it got on fire and even though it was not completely on ashes, the memory of that fire remained on its walls. The church is not originally black or black due to a painting. Its walls got darkened because of the fire’s smoke and that did not change even after a complete century of different restorations. It is considered the largest Gothic church in Eastern Europe. It was built in the same place where an older church was destroyed by Mongols in 1242.

The size, history (its construction took place between 1385 and 1477), and style of the building is impressive. Inside, is not very showy, but you can find a collection of Anatolian carpets, from the 18th and 17th centuries, used as ornaments on the walls. It is a reminiscence of the Ottoman influence in the area. Besides, stone columns, a massive, 4000-pipe organ (1839), stained glass windows, and balconies are there for you to discover them. The bell in the tower is a very heavy thing too, six thousand kg weight.

Now you know, what to visit in Brasov: The Black Church! You can have a deeper jump into its history and details about entrance fees, schedules to visit it, etc. here: https://bisericaneagra.ro/en/the-history-of-the-black-church/

https://bisericaneagra.ro/en/program/ (prices schedules etc)

Defensive fortifications

Brasov has different fortifications as a part of its current attractions. They all have a common origin. The Saxons who settled in this area at the beginning of the 12th century suffered countless invasions from Turks, Mongols, and others. Those constant threats pushed them to build fortifications (1400-1650), some of which you can still see nowadays.

Catherine’s Gate (Poarta Ecaterinei)

It was built in 1559 by the guild of tailors, and it was once the main entrance to the medieval Brasov or Kronstadt, as it was called then. Above the entrance, you will see a crown on a tree trunk, the city’s coat of arms.

Black Tower (Turnul Negru)

Yes, more fire, destruction, and darkness, guys! Hahaha. This city was severely hit by fires and attacks during its history. This Black Tower (built in 1494) got its name due to a fire caused by a bolt of lightning struck (1559). There is a museum of war artifacts there, but the best for us was to reach the top to enjoy a panoramic view. The Black Church looks great from here! And it fits easily in the pics!

White Tower (Turnul Alb)

Get another cool view of the historic center from here! This tower is on a hill. You can reach it by climbing around two hundred steps. Its construction was completed in 1494.

Graft Bastion (Bastionul Graft)

You can take a break in the first level. The other three offer exhibitions of medieval artifacts.

Beaver’s Bastion (Bastionul țesătorului)

Currently, it is a museum. A well-preserved building that became a venue for music concerts and opera.

Blacksmith’s Bastion (Bastionul Fierarilor)

This old building holds Brasov’s archives. Old and important documents like the oldest letter written in the Romanian language are kept there. This was one of the original seven city’s bastions guarded by guilds.

Schei Gate (Poarta Schei)

The entrance to or from the Schei district. It looks like a triumphal arc. You can see some Latin inscriptions on its structure, dedicated to Francis I, Habsburg Emperor, who visited Brasov in 1817.

Brasov Fortress

The Brasov fortress is located on a strategic hill so it overlooks the city. It was part of the outer system of defense. First, it was built with wood (1524). This material was replaced by stone in the 16th century. It only has an entrance.

If you have time, visit the fortress. The walk to it and its surroundings is a very pleasant activity and you can see the structure of the building. But if you have limited time here, better skip it. When we visited it (May 2022), it looked poorly maintained and there was no access to the interior. If you decide to go, just walk from the historic center to it. It is not a long distance.

Poiana Brasov

What to do in Brasov, well, this day we felt that we were not exhausted enough so we looked for a challenge hahaha. A very cool Romanian told us about Poiana Brasov. Another hike sounded like the dose of physical effort we needed so we did it! Hahaha. Joking, guys! Honestly, we are not gym people or very sportive. We are just brave hahaha. Our feet should be the parts of our bodies that hate us the most for their constant and hard use.

Poiana Brasov is a popular Romanian mountain resort located at the foot of the Postăvaru Massif (part of the Carpathians). A great answer for what to visit in Brasov! It hosts the largest ski area in Romania. The length of the slopes is around 25 km. In Winter, international tourists arrive here to ski, especially many Hungarians, Moldovians, and Ukrainians. In the late Spring and Summer, it is a place where mountain hikers enjoy complete days walking and even a good place to start harder but cool treks into the Carpathian mountains (southern).

We prepared water, some snacks, the feet, and the will to reach the ski resort by walking on a day forecasted as rainy! Why not? Hahaha, it was awesome! Another dose of nature! The path was well-marked and wide enough. We eventually shared it with some runners and bikers without a problem. On the way to the top, the effort is bigger but it was a very nice walk. We were so comfortable on that wooded path. We were faster every time we heard thunders. We were holding our thumbs for the rain not to catch us! After one hour and a half, we reached the ski resort. It is a very big area full of restaurants, shops, hotels, many sports fields, a lake, and those beautiful high slopes! It was May, and there was no snow, obviously, but the grass was perfectly maintained, like a green, soft carpet.

We very much liked this place. Not everything was open. But we had what we wanted, a very pleasant walk in nature, surrounded by green stuff, breathing fresh air, and with the plus of having delicious Romanian ciorbă (soup) and beer. We found only a very few humans around. Travel in the low season has advantages! While eating our ciorbă, the rain started, but we enjoyed it from the interior of the restaurant. And we again held the thumbs for it to stop because we needed to get back. There was an easy choice in front of us, to take the bus to get back. But M and I looked at each other and loudly challenged: “Who is the coward that will take the bus?”. The answer, of course, was “not us”. So we walked down! It took us an hour and the rain spared us, yeees!

You can reach Poiana Brasov by car or bus. It is, let’s say 10 km, away from Brasov historic center. Around 15 minutes drive or a 30-minute bus ride. You also can take a hiking route as we did and you will enjoy it a lot! We strongly recommend you walk! https://www.discoverpoiana.ro/ro/despre/

Eat and cook delicious Romanian food

Thinking about what to do in Brasov, Romania, a good idea is to eat and drink hahaha. Honestly, when you check a menu, you will find food that maybe you have tried in neighboring countries. Controversy about the origin of traditional dishes and beverages can be eternal. So not today, guys! Hahaha. But even light differences in seasoning, marinating, or pairing the food are much appreciated.

Well, that said, we like very much the Romanian ciorbe (soups). Yes, soups can be found in many places, but wait, when you are in Eastern Europe soups get a richer, heavier, and bigger meaning. Don’t imagine that scarce amount of broth with a few noodles, vegetables, or little pieces of meat floating on it. Those are more the Western types of soup. Soup in Eastern Europe is a generous and delicious dish that can be enough to get satisfied. That is our case. Even though we are solid fans of dessert, there is no chance for us to get a three-course meal after such a soup. But that depends on the size of each person's stomach and how hungry you are.

And what is great in Romania is the variety and of course, the taste. Sometimes, you get overwhelmed with all the choices you have in a single menu, but it is great because you can try a different one every day. Some are lighter (more vegetables than meat) than others (a lot of tasty meat, even different types of it at once). Besides, soups, we enjoy a lot the different ways they cook mămăligă (polenta). With all types of meat, sausages, sauces, cheese, etc. Your mămăligă can be as simple or full of stuff as you prefer.

We ate in restaurants but we also tried something very cool thanks to an awesome Romanian friend. We learned how to cook an authentic Romanian-style mămăligă! Wow, that was a very exciting experience from the beginning to the end (when we ate it)! We got the ingredients together, we chat a lot about Romanians and how they live, enjoy, etc. We shared the kitchen, M and I were the apprentices, so we followed our mămăligă Master hahaha and the conversation went long, very interesting, and fun! The Romanian beers, which we very much recommend you, combined very well with cooking and later on, with eating and chatting hahaha. Sharing time and cooking secrets with a local is always amazing. Maybe you know the phrase “The way to the heart is through the stomach” Haha. Well, this Romanian, whom we will call “A”, made us and our bellies the happiest! So yes, he got us!

Imagine how excited we were, that we bought the necessary ingredients to reproduce the recipe at home!

We are super enjoying this trip! We did not travel for two years due to the COVID-19 pandemic. It is awesome to share time with cool local people, especially dear friends from previous travels!

Conclusion

Do you want to visit a Romanian medieval city? Brasov is your best choice! It is a great medieval destination to include in your travels. Its geographical location is privileged. Deciding what to do in Brasov and what to visit there is easy! You can visit museums, churches, and Saxon traditional villages, hiking in nature, and enjoying restaurants, bars, cafés, and bloody violent stories. If you are adventurous and have time, Brasov can be, not only a must-destination but also a perfect base and gateway to explore deeper the awesome Transylvania.

So, did the violent past leave anything worth visiting in Brasov? Fortunately, it did! Despite the fact that invasions, war and destruction were constant in the history of this city, today there is still much to enjoy here.

Another farewell is coming and it feels hard. Brasov has meant great time, cool attractions, a nice-vibe city, and a dear Romanian friend we would not like to leave!

Follow our trip and remember, if you are looking for adventures, you only need to pack and go!

If you like Romania, you may find interesting:

Oradea, Romania, does this border city suck?

Timisoara, the progressive city that broke the communist chain

Bigar, the once stunning waterfall that is collapsing!

Orsova, Romania, a beautiful discovery kicked off by an error